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The Tunisian capital – home to one in ten of the
population – combines a modern, European-style city of tree-lined avenues with a
vibrant, atmospheric medina listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The main entrance to the medina is through an arched gateway known as the Bab
el Bahr (or Porte de France) on Place de la Victoire.
The main thoroughfare through the medina, rue Djamaa Ez-Zitouna, is often
bustling with tourists but more authentic souks (markets) can be found in
the myriad of surrounding alleys. Originally, each souk specialised in a single
trade. Among the oldest is the 13th-century Souk el Attarine (the
perfume-makers’ market) which still sells scents and essential oils.
If you get lost, the major landmark is the Zitouna Mosque (also known as
the Great Mosque) – the largest in Tunisia. It is the only mosque in the city
which can be visited by non-Muslims and even here, access is restricted to a
viewing enclosure overlooking a polished marble courtyard.
The Bardo Museum is a major tourist attraction, housing one of the
world’s greatest collections of Roman mosaics. Situated in a former palace
belonging to the Husaynid beys who ruled Tunisia in the 18th and 19th centuries,
the museum includes archaeological treasures from the Carthaginian, Roman, early
Christian and Islamic eras. The Roman section is the undoubted highlight with
mosaics covering entire floors and walls, many of them almost completely intact.
Common themes include hunting and farming scenes, Greek and Roman gods, sea
battles and family life.
Another popular museum – the National Museum of Carthage –is located on
the outskirts of the city near the airport. It is best visited immediately prior
to exploring the ruins of Carthage itself (see Historic Sites).
EXCURSIONS:
Close to Carthage, Sidi Bou Said is often
described as Tunisia’s prettiest village. Its cobbled streets and whitewashed
houses with light blue window grilles and studded doors has made it a popular
stop on any excursion to the Tunis area. Despite its popularity, it has managed
to retain its charm. The Café Sidi Chabanne is one of the best places in
Tunisia to sample the national drink, mint tea, which is served piping hot and
topped with pine nuts.
Other suburbs of Tunis include Gammarth which has fast become a
fully-fledged resort of luxury hotels, including the 5-star La Residence,
often described as the best hotel in Tunisia.
La Marsa is another upmarket beachfront suburb with a palm tree-lined
corniche and long sandy beach.
La Goulette is noted for its excellent fish restaurants which attract
crowds from Tunis especially on warm summer evenings. Once a pirates’ stronghold,
the town is at the mouth (‘the gullet’) of the Tunis canal and remains a busy
cargo and ferry port. It is linked to Tunis by a suburban rail service, the TGM.
Travel time to the centre of Tunis is less than 30 minutes.
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